Introduction
The basic material comes from a recycling centre and its origin is generally unknown. The fact that we want to offer a hygienic and freshly washed product to our consumers is of course logical. In addition, during the processing of this source material, we want our employees to work with fresh material.
Challenges
- When do we wash? Before or after upcycling the new products?
- Is using a household machine more expensive or cheaper, as the quantity is often not as large?
- What is the advantage of industrial washing?
- Do we find a local and sustainable partner for washing?
- How do we get rid of the musty smell and stubborn stains in textiles?
- How can we work with natural products in a conventional laundry?
- Some clothes need to be ironed after washing, but there are circular challenges here too.
Lessons learned
What we learned during the research that we would like to share:
When do we wash? Before or after upcycling the new product?
It is a good idea to wash the textile or garment before cutting and processing it. This has the following advantages:
- You start with clean textiles.
- You usually have fewer problems with colour fastness, shrinkage or stretch.
- Any damage is sometimes only visible after washing.
Is it more expensive or cheaper to use a washing machine, since the quantity is often not so large? And what is the advantage of industrial washing?
Household or industrial washing:
- Environmental impact:
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- Industrial washing is much better for the environment. For home washing, you use about 20 litres of water per kg of laundry (older machines can use even more). For industrial washing, it is 5 to 10 litres.
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- Energy consumption is also much lower in industrial laundries.
- As far as the use of chemicals (detergents) is concerned, a laundry only uses what is necessary. In most companies, the dosage is automatic and takes into account the amount of textile that enters the machine.
- Disinfection is easier in an industrial laundry. They use a thermochemical washing process. This can be done perfectly at lower temperatures by adding peracetic acid. Domestic disinfection is only possible by washing with boiling water or by adding disinfectants (e.g. Dettol®).
- Costs:
- When small quantities are involved, it is more advantageous to wash them in a domestic washing machine. As soon as the quantity or total weight of laundry increases, an industrial laundry offers a better solution. They can develop and offer a programme (wash/dry/iron/transport) that is tailored to your product and quality requirements (price/quality). Make sure you carry out a cost analysis of your project first and consider it in relation to the whole process. Washing is important but should certainly not be the largest part of your total cost.
- Larger quantities or more kilos of laundry make the price of industrial washing more attractive. So bundle as much source material as possible, possibly with other designers, and you will reduce transport costs and the total cost.
Interesting article on electricity and water consumption for each wash cycle: https://www.engie.be/fr/blog/conseils-energie/reduire-consommation-electricite-eau-machine-laver/
How to find a local and sustainable laundry partner?
- Visit the laundry of your choice.
- Opt for open communication and discuss their circular commitment.
- Also go to the laundry for a quality check after the wash and discuss any problems such as remaining stains or choice of packaging.
- For the continuation of the cutting process, decide with the laundry on the best way to deliver the washed textile.
How can I get rid of musty odour and stubborn stains in textiles?
- A musty smell is usually the result of poor hygiene or poor storage conditions. A disinfectant treatment can certainly help.
- Stubborn stains can be treated separately in a laundry/dry cleaning at the stain removal table. As in most cases the origin of the stain is not known, it is more difficult to remove it. It is also a time-consuming and expensive treatment. Depending on the cut and the further processing of the textile material, it is usually better to choose not to use a piece with stains anymore. On the website http://www.train4texcare.be/ you will find instructional videos on the different treatments in a laundry or dry cleaner.
Some clothes need to be ironed after washing, but here too there are challenges of a circular nature.
- A number of textile items can also be ironed on a (steam) dummy. This is a costly operation as each garment is then treated separately. It is therefore important to carefully consider whether you want this treatment and whether it is necessary in the further processing of your source material. The cost price will then be +/- doubled.
- There are other ways to achieve a less wrinkled result. Be sure to discuss this with the person in charge of the laundry, as it is highly dependent on the processes and machines available.
Further advice
- TOP-atelier has worked together with De Reu Laundry in Waarschoot. You can find their contact details here.
- Frederik Dormaels (textile care expert for TFTC – Training For Textile Care) gave a workshop to the TOP-atelier designers on the different washing processes. Check out their training offer on www.train4texcare.be or contact them on +32 (0)2 463 19 50.
- TFTC also collaborates with the professional federation of Belgian textile care workers (FBT). On their website you can find all the member laundries in Belgium.
- Ann Collier (sector technology project coordinator for IVOC-IREC) is TOP-atelier project manager, coach of the TOP-atelier designers and visited the De Reu laundry with them. You can send her an e-mail with your practical questions about industrial and domestic washing a.collier@ivoc.be.
- Katrien Janssens (training project coordinator and textile trainer) is a textile expert and gives training and advice on fibres, fabrics and finishing. You can email her at k.janssens@ivoc.be for your specific textile questions.
- Tool for saving on household laundry costs: https://www.engie.be/fr/blog/conseils-energie/reduire-consommation-electricite-eau-machine-laver/
An overview of the challenges and lessons learned
For each stage of the production process :