Introduction
Until now, the cutting of post-consumer textile waste into new textile products was done with scissors and was therefore a time-consuming and expensive step in the process. TOP-atelier took on the challenge of experimenting with cutting up existing garments on a large scale using an industrial single-ply cutter. This cutter – CutWorks – is a machine from Gerber Technology and is used in confectioneries to cut prototypes and small series from fabric rolls*.
*In conventional cutting, layers of fabric are layered and then cut together. This method is known and has been developed technologically.
Challenges
To cut existing textile products, or parts of them, with an industrial cutter, the process must of course be rethought. We examine which technological changes are necessary.
Specifically, we were faced with the following challenges:
- What needs to be done to scale up?
- Is it possible to digitally cut existing garments on a large scale?
- Which garment factories are willing to experiment and work for upcycling?
- Can we develop the right cutting techniques with the existing cutting machine hardware and software?
- How do we get the garments tight and wrinkle-free on the cutting table?
- Can we avoid using plastic film during the cutting process?
- Can multiple layers be cut on a single layer cutter?
Lessons learned
What we have learned in our research and would like to share with future designers.
What does it take to scale up?
Scaling up is a process that requires a lot of preparation, clear agreements, concrete tests and sufficient testing, adjustments and development of new techniques, systems and technologies. One of the biggest challenges in garment recycling is to cut existing garments into new shapes and parts.
Basic conditions for scaling up :
- Willingness of designers/entrepreneurs to scale up and produce in larger numbers. (taking into account sales and target group)
- A fully developed prototype that can be scaled up.
- Source material available in sufficient quantity
- Cooperation with a production partner who can dismantle the source material, if necessary, and who thinks along with us about possible methods and solutions.
- Technical information, drawings and instructions
- Motivated employees
Is it possible to digitally cut existing garments on a large scale?
YES!
Gerber Technology has partnered with TOP-atelier to find an efficient way to digitally cut post-consumer textile waste.
By making the necessary adjustments to Gerber Technology’s existing technology, we were able to develop different cutting methods for cutting jeans and men’s shirts. We were able to test these cutting methods on a larger scale at Flanders Fashion Makers. We cut 140 pairs of jeans and 1200 shirts in the process.
Is it possible to digitally cut existing garments on a large scale?
YES!
Gerber Technology, in collaboration with TOP-atelier, looked for an efficient way to digitally reduce post-consumer textile waste streams.
By making the necessary adjustments to Gerber Technology’s existing technology, we were able to develop different cutting methods for cutting jeans and men’s shirts. We were able to test these cutting methods on a larger scale at Flanders Fashion Makers. In the process, we cut 140 pairs of jeans and 1200 shirts.
Which garment factories are willing to experiment and work with upcycling?
Look further under ‘further advice’.
Are we able to develop the right cutting techniques with the existing hardware and software of the cutting machine?
Yes, we have been able to develop specific cutting methods.
When cutting new pattern pieces, we can first scan the cutting area (= make it visible on the PC screen) and then place the pattern pieces in the cutting area. We can also specify the order in which the pattern pieces should be cut during the cutting process. And we let the cutting head stop after cutting each pattern piece, because we can move the starting point each time. This is very useful if we have to work with different widths during production.
There is a full description of all the cutting tests carried out and a Gerber CutWorks user manual on this new upcycling cutting method. This cutting method and manual can be used and applied in other upcycling projects and workshops. Contact Ann Collier – a.collier@ivoc.be
How to put clothes in the machine without folding them?
PREPARATION
Depending on the result you want to achieve, we first consider whether and to what extent the garment needs to be dismantled.
For example, jeans can be laid completely flat on the cutting table and cut without disassembly. The top part of the jeans was collected for another uycycling project and the rest of the waste was sent to “Hack Your Jeans” to be refined.
The men’s shirts were taken apart with the band saw for 2 projects. (The sleeves and the flat piece with the collar were removed first).
Then the shirts can be stacked in 2 to 4 layers on the cutting table. The waste material from the cut was kept to make a patchwork afterwards.
CUTTING
After disassembly, the folders have been placed on the open or double cutting table and covered with a plastic sheet* (at the places that will be cut). The plastic sheet, in combination with the suction system, fixes the parts of the folders on the cutting table in order to obtain an optimal cutting quality during the cutting process.
*When cutting on the cutting tables, the cutting shops use a plastic sheet to suck the fabric in order to cut it. This plastic sheet is only used once. This system has been criticised because, at first sight, it is not very durable.
Can we avoid using a plastic sheet during the cutting process?
- We tested this by replacing the sheet with paper. This required more suction from the cutting machine, which consumed more energy. This also results in an increase in noise pollution.
- We tested this by replacing the film with an extra layer of fabric (which was no longer in use). This required even more suction from the cutting machine and therefore more energy consumption. The quality of the cut was poorer.
- Another solution would be to collect the sheet separately after cutting, re-melt it and make a new cutting sheet.
Can several layers be cut on one cutter?
Yes, it is possible to cut up to 4 layers. However, you should consider whether or not to cut on thick seams. It is also possible to work with a larger rotary cutter and stack even more layers, but we have not yet tested this ourselves.
Further advice
Useful information
- How do you start cooperating with a manufacturer?
- Provide the manufacturer with clear and sufficient technical information about your prototype(s).
- Put your quality requirements on paperRequest recommended prices for different prototypes and treatments
- Provide the necessary budget to finance production Ensure open communication
- Start with a small production run
- Monitor everything and check quality regularly
- It is important to discuss the cutting technique with the manufacturer beforehand with regard to disassembly and the result of the cut. It is also useful to discuss all technical information and prototypes before assembly. This is to create an efficient workflow and to achieve a good quality of cut.
- The description of the cutting tests and the Gerber technology manual can be requested via a.collier@ivoc.be.
Contact
- Gerber Technology, based in Zaventem, provides integrated software and hardware solutions to customers in a variety of industries, including furniture, fashion and apparel, to over 500 companies in 134 countries. https://www.gerbertechnology.com/
- Ann Collier (IVOC Sector Technology Project Coordinator) is TOP-atelier’s project manager, TOP-atelier’s designer coach and production process manager. You can send her your questions about production, including the cutting process in the context of upcycling, a.collier@ivoc.be.
- Flanders Fashion Makers, based in Alken, is a clothing company that specialises in producing high quality garments, from the first idea to the final production, with a strong focus on quality and detail. They work for high-end brands such as Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, Scapa, etc. Sophie Lesire, commercial director – sophie.lesire@flandersfashionmakers.be
An overview of the challenges and lessons learned
For each stage of the production process :