Introduction
An important step in the production process of upcycling is the dismantling of the clothes. The individual diversity of the sorted models makes this production phase complex and time-consuming. The aim of this phase is to process the garments in such a way that they are easy to handle when cut into new shapes and patterns. Together with the designers and trainers of TOP-atelier, we looked for efficient and systematic working methods.
Challenges
In concrete terms, we were faced with the following challenges:
- How can you further sort the source material according to size, colour, shape or material?
- Disassembly is largely manual and time consuming. In most cases, garments have to be dismantled individually.
- How should the garments be disassembled depending on the source material, the desired processing and the available cutting techniques?
- How should the garments be delivered so that they can be cut accurately and efficiently from the pattern pieces?
Lessons learned
We are happy to share the results of our research:
How can you further sort source material by size, colour, shape or material?
The finer the sorting, the smoother the production preparation can be. This can be done by :
- communicating the different sorting criteria clearly and unambiguously
- specifically trained staff who can guide you
- creating a smooth sorting flow
- using the necessary infrastructure and technology
Dismantling is largely manual and time consuming. In most cases, garments have to be dismantled individually.
- Do not underestimate this phase! It takes a lot of time, so don’t forget to include it in your total cost of ownership.
- In addition, it is usually not necessary to completely dismantle the source material and loosen all the seams. Therefore, always take into account the following operations in the production process, so that only what is necessary is dismantled.
- It is best to discuss this phase with an experienced manufacturer or expert in order to test and optimise your own working method.
- Constantly monitor the quality of holes and spots in order to detect and treat defects as early as possible or to filter out the parts concerned.
How to dismantle according to the source material, the desired processing and the available cutting techniques?
- Step 1: Analyse all necessary dismantling operations in advance so that you can cut
- Step 2: Check with the cutting service exactly how the cutting is done (and possibly carry out a test).
- Step 3: Check which tools and techniques can facilitate dismantling, such as a band saw, portable electric cutters, rotary cutter, ……
- Step 4: Provide a good working place: a large smooth table, good lighting, a place to sort and group everything.
For example, during the research we discovered that it was not necessary to dismantle the jeans beforehand to cut the sneaker patterns with the Gerber CutWorks.
How should the garments be delivered so that the pattern pieces are cut accurately and efficiently?
- It is very important to know the cutting and production process before starting the disassembly process. Align them with each other.
- Disassembled parts of different garments should not be interchanged and should be packaged in a structured way for transport to the cutting department.
- Work with the product codes you apply to the disassembled items to avoid confusion.
- Don’t forget to check out the additional tips and useful contacts we would like to give you.
Further advice
- Sibille Diederichs (founder and designer of Joseffa) is a TOP-atelier designer coach and for her circular label Joseffa sets to work herself with post-consumer men’s shirts that she disassembles before reworking. You can send her an email with specific questions sibille@joseffa.com
- A possible partner for your disassembly process is the CiLAB in Mechelen. This collective spreads knowledge about circular textiles and likes to work with designers. You can find them here.
An overview of the challenges and lessons learned
For each stage of the production process :