Introduction
One of the objectives of TOP-atelier was to demonstrate that it can be profitable and scalable to produce high quality products from textile waste streams in Belgium. To do this, it is necessary to work with a good local partner for clothing, who works in a qualitative way that respects the environment, the people and the product.
Challenges
Specifically, we faced the following challenges:
- Can we find the right local partners to make the parts?
- Can we deliver the punched parts in a structured way?
- How can we avoid unexpected spots, holes and mistakes in the punched parts?
- How do we create an efficient workflow? (The assembly process is similar to a linear product, but the material itself is more diverse).
- The tailoring becomes more personalised. Unique pieces are made according to the source material. Can a uniform data sheet be used for this?
- A series of the same designs usually consists of fabrics that differ in colour, thickness and firmness, which requires a flexible approach from the tailor. For example, the use of different coloured yarns, etc.
- Is it possible to calculate the cost based on the variable source material?
- What is the best way to communicate with the clothing company?
Lessons learned
What we learned in the search for the TOP workshop that we would like to share with future designers:
Can we find the right local partners to make the parts?
- Look for a local partner and ask about their circular commitment.
- In the “further advice” section below, you will find some suggestions.
Can we deliver the cut parts in a structured way?
- This is possible by immediately collecting the cut pieces according to the finishing that will take place next (make sure you discuss this working method with your manufacturer).
- You can group the cut pieces into packages of ten pieces.
- You can apply a production code to each bundle.
How can you avoid unexpected stains, holes and mistakes in the cut pieces?
- Set aside time during preparation, sorting, disassembly and cutting to check the quality. In this way, you can notice unexpected spots, holes and/or mistakes in the cut parts before you start making them.
How to create an efficient workflow?
(the assembly process is similar to that of a linear product, but the material itself is more diverse).
- Discuss all possibilities with the confectionery company’s employees.
- Strive for open and clear communication with the clothing company.
- Communicate your quality requirements.
- Ask for a cost calculation and discuss details with them, such as using the right colour of yarn for different textile materials and multiple structures.
- A series of models to be produced usually consists of fabrics that differ in colour, thickness and firmness, which requires a flexible approach from the ready-made garment workshop. Develop a step-by-step plan with them.
- Develop a data sheet that shows schematically what needs to be done from the standard operations and which materials and variable elements need to be processed.
- Carry out a first production trial with the workshop.
Is it possible to calculate the cost price from a variable source material?
- Yes, an average is made of all the different processing times.
- Ask for a costing and discuss the details with them.
- You can ask for a directed price = this is the cost price per working hour for the actual execution costs (such as labour and material), increased profit and overheads.
- You can also ask for a guide price = based on the model, an ‘approximate’ price is then established, which is usually close to the actual cost price.
- The actual cost price can only be calculated once the model has been produced. The more pieces of a model in production, the lower the price.
How to communicate with the clothing manufacturer?
- Try to establish open and clear communication with the clothing company.
- Communicate your quality requirements.
Conseils supplementaires
Informations utiles
- Comment commence-t-on à coopérer avec un fabricant ?
- Fournir au fabricant des informations techniques claires et suffisantes sur votre ou vos prototypes.
- Mettez vos exigences de qualité sur papier
- Demandez les prix recommandés pour les différents prototypes et traitements.
- Fournir le budget nécessaire au financement de la production
- Faire une vue d’ensemble des commandes, des tailles et des quantités à produire
- Assurer une communication ouverte
- Assurez le suivi de tout et vérifiez régulièrement la qualité
Contacts
- Ann Collier (coordinatrice du projet technologique sectoriel pour l’IVOC) est le responsable de projet TOP-atelier, coach des designers TOP-atelier et responsable du processus de production. Vous pouvez lui envoyer un courriel pour lui poser vos questions sur la production, y compris le processus de découpe dans le cadre du recyclage, a.collier@ivoc.be.
- Sibille Diederichs (fondatrice et designer de Joseffa) est coach des designers du TOP-atelier et travaillera pour son label circulaire Joseffa sur des chemises pour hommes post-consommation qui seront mises en production. Vous pouvez lui adresser vos questions spécifiques par courrier électronique à l’adresse sibille@joseffa.com
- Flanders Fashion Makers, basée à Alken, est une entreprise de confection spécialisée dans l’élaboration de vêtements de haute qualité, de la première idée à la production finale, avec un fort accent sur la qualité et les détails. Ils travaillent pour des marques haut de gamme telles que Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, Scapa, etc. Sophie Lesire, responsable – sophie.lesire@flandersfashionmakers.be
An overview of the challenges and lessons learned
For each stage of the production process :